The French dip sandwich has dueling origin stories, dating back more than a century to two downtown Los Angeles eateries. Both involve an inadvertent dipping of the sandwich in beef juices. At Fashion Island, it’s gone upmarket.

New RH Ocean Grill, atop spectacular home furnishings design destination RH, is filled with contemporary chandeliers, faux olive trees and stylish fountains. Menu highlights include elaborate seafood towers and exquisite caviar creations. The runaway favorite? The shaved rib-eye dip. Impossibly tender meat and Emmentaler Swiss cheese share a charred, buttered baguette, with memorably savory jus on the side.

Also memorable: R+D Kitchen, opposite Neiman Marcus, specializes in classic American fare, including artisanal sandwiches. The generous French dip au jus is as classic as it gets. It presents thinly sliced, rosy-hued roasted prime rib on a French roll; it’s also prime for sharing by the convivial crowd that fills the bustling eatery and pleasant patio.

One thing fashion retailer Nordstrom is known for is customer service; one thing its restaurants are known for is the French dip sandwich. Bazille offers contemporary takes on bistro favorites in a distinctive ochre-and-pale-yellow setting with a focal display kitchen. The French dip brings certified Angus beef, sharp white cheddar cheese and aromatic jus.