Prized in ancient Persia and Imperial Russia and now a global delicacy, caviar has never gone out of vogue. But the treat, made from rare sturgeon roe, rides a new wave of popularity at spectacular restaurants in Newport Beach.

Kaluga caviar is a modern hybrid prized by aficionados. Specialties featuring Petrossian Imperial Kaluga are a signature at new RH Ocean Grill at Fashion Island. They include the popular mini lobster rolls; mini king crab rolls; toro or salmon cones; the lightest imaginable house-made chips and dip; and grilled avocado. All come with crème fraîche and chives.

Caviar from osetra sturgeon sustainably and ethically raised in Poland and Italy stars on menus at Fashion Island’s Ocean 48. The restaurant offers three grades of Sasanian osetra with blinis and accoutrements: crisp, dark and nutty Siberian; large, amber and velvety Royal; and golden Imperial, buttery and salty with hazelnut notes. Caviar cones feature Siberian osetra, horseradish crème fraîche and gold leaf.

The caviar service at A Crystal Cove began two years ago for the holidays; now it tops menus for every meal, be it bubbles at brunch or live music late. Subtly fruity and nutty Ars Italica Oscietra Royal Caviar – made in Italy, and using an alternate spelling of osetra – arrives with made-to-order cornmeal blinis plus crème fraîche, chives, black pepper and lemon.